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Holding back the years
by Lynne and Sarah Dark of Zest health & beauty
Part 1
WHY DOES SKIN AGE? Do sunlight, pollution, smoking and alcohol really accelerate the ageing process? Can we stop the biological clock ticking away? The most vulnerable organ of the body, skin, is exposed to both internal and external attack - evidence has proved that environmental hazards are responsible for speeding up natural ageing. But the good news is that we can combat premature ageing by guarding skin from both within and without.
Ageing is one of the most complex biological processes that the body has to contend with. Ultraviolet light, in particular UVA, is mainly responsible for speeding up the process. As we age, our body loses its ability to adapt to environmental changes as quickly as it should to give us adequate protection. Skin ageing also depends very much on individual genetic inheritance and, consequently, some skins age more quickly than others.
Ageing skin goes through a number of changes. Cell division and cell growth become impaired. Blood circulation becomes poorer, the essential water content decreases and the visible changes that are associated with skin ageing gradually become apparent. The appearance of wrinkles and lines is often the first sign.
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Elasticity and firmness are lost slowly but surely, and the texture can change, with the appearance of uneven areas of dry, flaky skin. Skin also becomes thinner and more transparent, losing much of its protective power.
Pigmentation is affected too with the formation of patchy, light and dark areas, especially on sun-exposed skin. Sun exposure accelerates blotchy skin because the attack is both internal and external. Skin ageing starts on a cellular level with changes in the genetic DNA within the cells.
There is no doubt that sun damages the skin, often beyond repair. UVA is the one most likely to speed up the ageing process and could be the ray linked with skin cancer. It has the longest wavelength and penetrates deep into the dermis, where it not only causes the formation of free radicals, but also interferes with the natural production of collagen and elastin – vital for elasticity and moisture retention.
This photoageing is increased dramatically with the use of sunbeds which give out concentrated UVA radiation, causing untold damage to the dermal layer. Avoid them completely if you are concerned about skin health and ageing!
Next month we will continue this important topic, concentrating on more factors associated with skin ageing and ways to help the situation!
May we take this opportunity to wish all our Clients, friends and readers of this column a very Happy Christmas and a healthy and prosperous New Year.
Part 2
LAST MONTH we were considering the factors that accelerate skin ageing and concentrated on the effects of UV radiation from sunlight and sunbeds.
Other important factors that speed up this unwelcome process are smoking, alcohol and environmental stress.
There is no doubt that smoking accelerates the ageing process. Smoking inhibits cell respiration and slows down the circulation, by constricting the blood vessels. This depletes the exchange of nutrients to the skin cells and inhibits the elimination of waste products. Cigarette smoke also releases a chemical called benzopyrine, which destroys ascorbic acid – vitamin C. In turn, a lack of vitamin C slows down the production of collagen, thereby contributing to premature wrinkles.
Alcohol produces acetaldehyde, which is usually converted to acetate in the liver and excreted. However, if the liver has been damaged by excess intake of alcohol, it is absorbed in the body where it encourages cross-linking of cells, which can lead to the formation of free radicals. In addition, alcohol depletes the body’s vitamin reserves, especially of B complex and C. It is also dehydrating, reducing the levels of moisture in the skin and leading to dryness. Too much alcohol can dilate the blood vessels, especially in the face and cause redness – broken or dilated capillaries can also appear permanently.
Dramatic changes in temperature, harsh chemicals such as detergents and soaps, central heating and air conditioning can all take their toll on skin and encourage premature ageing. More harmful are the environmental pollutants such as lead, cadmium, aluminium and mercury, which can accumulate in the body and encourage the formation of dangerous peroxides which, in turn, attack cell protein. Take action and protect yourself with a diet rich in anti-oxidants, including vitamins C and E, the minerals selenium, zinc and iron, pectin and seaweed, all of which help to detoxify and eliminate harmful pollutants.
All these factors have the common denominator – free radicals, as the damaging element. They are marauding particles formed by complex chemical reactions causing damage particularly to the chromosomes, and so distorting the genetic blueprint of the cell. Free radicals are produced by the interaction of oxygen with certain fats which then form semi-stable peroxides capable of destroying proteins in the body. DNA, cell membranes, collagen and skin lipids can be irreparably damaged by them – and the outward signs of skin ageing become apparent.
You can protect yourself from some of this damage by ensuring that you control levels of stress, have regular exercise, protect your body from harsh environmental elements and eat a diet rich in anti-oxidants, which are chemicals that soak up the reactive energy of free radicals, helping to slow down the ageing process. Increase your intake of the vitamins A, B, C and E, all of which are potent anti-oxidants. Vitamin A helps to improve the texture and quality of skin. Vitamin B and folic acid are all vital to maintaining a healthy immune system and essential for the healthy formation of collagen. Vitamin C maintains the immune system, detoxifies and protects – levels in smokers, heavy alcohol drinkers and the over 60’s are low. Vitamin E is a powerful free radical scavenger, neutralising the formation of harmful peroxides and protecting against irradiation. We must ensure that these important vitamins are taken in sufficient quantities through our diet. External protection from sunlight should also be taken every day in the form of sunscreens or moisturisers with added UV barriers, this can help the daily onslaught of UV radiation that so ages the skin.
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