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Knowing Your Onions
Garlic Chives (Allium tuberosum) is similar, but with looser, white flowers and strap-like leaves. It smells of garlic, but is relatively mild in flavour. It is much used in Chinese cooking. I get rather over-enthused (according to my family) when Ramsons (Allium ursinum, sometimes known as wild garlic) appears in the local woods. The powerful smell of garlic fills the air for miles, and the large, succulent leaves may be used in lots of ways. When my son was small, he used to wrap picnic food in them to make sure everything tasted of garlic. I loved them in salads. Once Ramsons comes into flower, though, the smell becomes a bit too rank, even for me! Native Varieties Three strange native onions which are worth having are the Three-cornered Leek (Allium triquetrum) with its juicy, wedge-shaped leaves, Serpent Garlic (Allium scorodoprasum) whose flowering stems go on a twisty journey through space before breaking bud, and the magnificent, towering Babbington Leek (Allium babbingtonii), which can reach six feet once established! The flowers on this rare native are a weird mix of little bulbils, pink starry flowers, and long, curling flower stems, which then produce more bulbils and flowers in combination! The long, strappy leaves are excellent for culinary use. Finally, the so-called Welsh Onion (Allium fistulosum). This excellent perennial shoots up early, resembles a monstrous chive, but bears big round white flowers that attract bumble bees like my carpets attract dog hair (inexcusably). You can eat the leaves all summer, and the basal bulbs constantly increase and can be used as “normal” onions in the kitchen. They are called scallions. It’s a delicious, delightful and trouble-free plant, and you need never sow onion seed again! All in all, this is a plant family worth getting to know better! © Margaret Lear
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