Short Break in Dublin

Trinity College Library displays several early manuscripts, including the 7th century Book of Durrow and the 9th century Book of Kells. Probably begun in Iona before the Vikings’ arrival, it was taken to Kells monastery in County Meath. The sophisticated and detailed designs of the Gospels are a supreme example of early medieval art from Ireland’s ‘Golden Age’.

The College was founded by Queen Elizabeth in 1591 as a Protestant university. Even into the 20th century the Catholic Church still forbade its youth to enter. Dublin is known for the elegance of its 18th century buildings of which Trinity College (pictured) has more than a fair share. It faces College Park, one of the delightful green oases in the middle of the city. Opposite Trinity is the magnificent facade, resplendent with Ionic columns, of the Bank of Ireland Headquarters. Built as the Parliament building, it was adapted after the 1800 Act of Union.

Take a walk down Grafton Street, a mecca for those who love quality shopping, and visit Powerscourt House, once an 18th century city home with some of Ireland’s best plaster ceilings. Converted into a mall some years ago, you can admire them while you sample one of the attractive eating places.

It is a delight to wander around Dublin’s 18th century streets and squares. Many houses have columns beside the front door, and a handsome fanlight above. Merrion Square has numerous literary connections and the city has bred and inspired a host of great writers; Jonathan Swift, Oliver Goldsmith, Sheridan, Oscar Wilde, GB Shaw, Sean O’Casey and Louis MacNeice, to name but a few. Some years ago we had a walking tour of literary Dublin from an elderly, dynamic and very entertaining local. He clearly adored the poet WB Yeats, and stopped once or twice to regale us with a recitation delivered with great passion. One of our party mentioned James Joyce; the reaction was a string of abuse!

The city has a long tradition of theatre and music, and on 13 April, 1742 it hosted the first performance of Handel’s Messiah. With the composer present, it was sung by the choirs of the Protestant cathedrals, St Patrick’s and Christchurch. Performed in the city’s rather restricted white and gold Musick Rooms, ladies were asked not to wear hooped skirts and men to leave their swords behind. The oratorio was an immediate success.

Many visitors sample Guinness which is said to taste best from the keg in its native Dublin. The brewery was founded in 1759 by Arthur Guinness; he and his descendants have been great benefactors to the city. By the 19th century it was the world’s largest brewery. With pubs, teashops and eating places there is plenty of choice when you need refreshment. Dublin also boasts excellent museums and galleries.

A sobering walk down O’Connell Street past the Post Office reminds one of the tragic moments in Ireland’s long fight for independence. The building was the rebels’ command post in the 1916 Easter Rising, when the area saw devastation and many deaths. Today Dublin is a peaceful and fascinating city to visit. It is so full of interest that a return visit seems essential.