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Short Break in Knapdale with Gillian Hull
A recent short break found us exploring a part of Argyllshire unknown to us. We find the extent and diversity of the county extraordinary, yet we have seen but a fraction of its 2,000 mile long coastline! We set off from home in pouring rain which continued into the next day. The sun finally shone the day we left. Embarking on a leisurely homeward journey along Loch Awe’s remote northwest shore, we revelled in the sheer beauty of newly washed hills, forests and lochs.
On leaving home, our first stop was to meet up briefly with Americans on a walking tour. We then drove south and remembered a visit to Kilmartin’s Neolithic and Bronze Age remains and the cup-marks and spirals at Achnabreck. Driving across Moine Mhor, the Great Moss, its flatness is in stark contrast to the surrounding gentle hills and glens. The Moss, a National Nature Reserve, offers a rich habitat for plants and birds. Crossing the Crinan Canal, we followed it westwards to where it joins Loch Crinan.
Begun in 1794, the canal is nine miles long with 15 locks. Its construction was fraught with difficulties including labour problems and flood damage, but it finally opened in 1801, saving the Clyde ‘puffers’ a journey around Kintyre of 130 miles and frequent rough seas. The canal was designed by John Rennie, Scottish engineer, who had a distinguished career including canal and bridge construction and superintending Stevenson’s work on Bell Rock Lighthouse. |
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In the canal basin were one or two simple but strongly built, workmanlike craft, including one named ‘The Vital Spark’. Today the canal is used for pleasure while walkers enjoy the towpath.
Knapdale, a new peninsula for us, is south of the Crinan Canal, and has a very remote, unhurried feel. With the Sound of Jura to the west, and Loch Fyne to the east, it is indented by two arms of the sea, one the impressive Loch Sween. With lonely inland lochs as well, we were constantly on the lookout for otters. Robin saw two swimming on our final morning. Originally owned by the Lords of the Isles, Knapdale was granted to the Earl of Argyll by James IV.
There is a tradition of stock-rearing on Knapdale, and by 1700 its cattle met up with those from Islay and Jura on their way to the great trysts at Crieff and Falkirk. Livestock rearing and forestry are the major industries of the area today. While the north is mostly forested, including ancient oak woodland, the south is pastoral which delighted us with abundant yellow flags, ragged robin, vivid red campion and huge areas of orchids. After lunch in the attractive village of Tayvallich we drove southwest, and gazed at a mystical-looking Jura surrounded by a blanket of swirling cloud.
A road follows the eastern shore of Loch Sween to ruined Castle Sween, set dramatically above the water. The seaward side of the unroofed square structure must have instilled awe into those attacking. Possibly dating from the 11th century, the kitchen, great hall, and the handsome, round tower were added later. It has been a ruin since the 17th century. Further south is 13th century Kilmory Knap Chapel, which now contains 8th to 16th century cross slabs, the earliest of which show the high quality carving of the Iona School.
Among the gentle hills, woods and water of Knapdale, we appreciated the empty roads and the peace of a remote, beautiful corner of Argyllshire. I wonder which part of the county we shall be exploring next?
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